ONE OF YOU ASKED ME WHAT IT IS LIKE TO RIDE A WAVE:
Well, it is an incredible feeling. It is both exhilarating and peaceful at the same time. The ride is usually 'seconds, not minutes, but during those seconds it is as if 'time stands still' You feel the smooth flow of water beneath your feet.
WHAT IS IT LIKE TO COMPETE IN SURFING TOURNAMENTS?
Surfing tournaments are extremely competitve and at times depending on the size of the waves, very dangerous. Knowing the sport is dangerous and still choosing to do it shows how much I love to Surf.
The waves during tournament time are as high as a Two Story Building (20 feet) at times, in meters this is approximately 6.09 meters tall! My decision to "Go" is instantaneous, because to look down these enormous waves is like looking down a cliff, and i know I must not wait or my fear will take control. So, I take a quick look at my position to the wave, make my decisions, and GO!!!
Once I drop into the waves for me it is almost second nature, I am a contender in my element, my muscles flex and I take control. At times I do not hear the wave 'crashing' to my left or right, my mouth is tight while I take as much air into my lungs as possible and I ride the shoot (wave). Often the 'drop' from the top of the wave down to the face of the 'curl' is so steep it is like jumping off a rock into the water, I quickly empty my lungs and take in more oxygen. My breathing technique is extremely important because my body is pumping heavy amounts of adrenaline and at every second i am shifting, turning, balancing, gritting my teeth, sometimes I have as little as the pad of one foot piveting on the surf board.........it all happens so fast, and for a fleeting 30 to 60 Seconds I am 'on top of the world'.........sometimes I hear people cheering, but I cannot look up to see them, I hear waves crashing nearby, but I cannot turn to see them, and in the end, in less than 60 seconds I have either conquered the wave, or I fight to surface above the water, and yes at times to stay alive after being tossed and held under by crashing waves, and the 'under tow'. It is with pride that I say that I am in it for the ride and the love of Surfing and Competition,
Denis
